Campbell River

Visit the Campbell River shoreline and pier

Cast your line off Discovery Pier or buy fresh seafood right on the wharf

by Phyllis Crook

Every autumn the salmon head upstream to spawn and eagles, bears and other wildlife join in their quest for survival. Campbell River is a city where the day begins with auburn hues of the sun cresting over the mainland peaks and where you can breathe clean air and enjoy the flavour and natural beauty of the northwest coast. Where else can you ski in the morning, golf in the afternoon and dine on fresh salmon in the evening?

Mount Washington towers a mere 40-minute drive south of town. This island mountain remains snow-covered until late June, which enables ski enthusiasts a longer season. In summer experienced hikers heads for the mountain’s trails, always with an eye to potentially severe weather, since Mount Washington has the reputation of being “home of the world’s worst weather.” Severe storms, including snow, can happen at any time of year on the mountain. But the lower elevations enjoy Mediterranean-type summer dryness. After all, Vancouver Island lays claim to the mildest climate in Canada.

Strolling Shoppers Row brought me past quaint boutiques, the Tidemark Theatre and galleries that showcase local artists. The pungent aroma of mussels drenched in garlic filtered from a seaside bistro. While dining, I was entertained by a seal enjoying his lunch as much as I was enjoying mine. My RV dinner plans consisted of a fresh salmon from Crabby Bob’s Seafood at the Pier. From there I was drawn to the flurry of activity at the Pier Street Farmers Market. Each Sunday from May to September vendors, farmers and crafters offer local produce, fruit and crafts. Lingering at Fisherman’s Wharf, I easily got lost in the beat of the live music while nibbling on a homemade fritter with one hand and balancing my Coho salmon in the other.

Wandering along the seawalk I was amazed by the spectacular totem poles and wood carvings that pepper the shoreline. The last week of June hosts the annual chainsaw carving competitions. About 30 carvers from novice to professional use chainsaws, mauls, knives and chisels to form amazing creations. These artisans take up the challenge of transforming recycled cedar and fir into forms of art. Later the sculptures are auctioned and displayed throughout the city for the public to enjoy all year round.

Late afternoon called for a pre-dinner martini at Painters Lodge. This historical lodge was founded in 1929 and has since become legendary as the prime location for trophy fishermen seeking giant Pacific salmon. Celebrities such as John Wayne, Bob Hope, Goldie Hawn and Julie Andrews are but a few who have stayed and fished at Painters. 

From the pier it’s just a short water taxi ride to April Point Resort and Spa on Quadra Island. While there I recharged with an open air spa treatment on the terrace, overlooking the stunning natural setting of Discovery Passage. In the distance a whale flipped his tail as if to say “Welcome to the heart of the Pacific playground.”

Soon the sun sinks into the sea and the embers die in my makeshift beach fire pit. All that’s left of the day are the lights of a passing cruise ship and the gentle waves washing the bleached driftwood. Like the salmon that keep time to the ebb and flow of the tides, I too promise to return to the not-so-sleepy coastal community of Campbell River.
 

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