Port Townsend, Washington
A journey through history
This traveller’s adventure in Port Townsend is a visit to the past
The ferry hit the dock and gave a jolt. Our 30-minute crossing of Puget Sound—from Keystone on Whidby Island to Port Townsend on the Olympic Peninsula—was smooth.The boat was tied to the dock and the ramp lowered. A large group of foot passengers were the first to disembark and it was a short walk into this charming old town. In 1851, pioneers settled Port Townsend. The Victorian waterfront is designated a National Historic Landmark District. The restored buildings date back to this time. On Water Street, a beautiful tree-lined thoroughfare, each building has a name and construction date carved into the stone. Today restaurants, shops, offices and art galleries reside in these heritage buildings.
Artillery Hill is one of many notable viewpoints in Port Townsend.—photo by Lynn Jackart
As we strolled in and out of these magnificent structures, a feeling of warmth and comfort was part of the experience. The smell of old wood and polish took us back to the time of intricate craftsmanship and long-lasting architecture.
Our campground was Fort Worden State Park, originally built in 1902 and also declared a National Historic Landmark. To reach the park north of Port Townsend, we wound our way through the residential district. Many Victorian homes with well cared for properties and beautiful old trees lined the streets.
The iron gates of Fort Worden told us we were about to enter a military base of 443 acres and an 80-site campground. We passed well-manicured lawns and parade grounds. A guardhouse, artillery museum, commanding officers’ quarters, hostel, Cable House Canteen and many other buildings have been restored to their original state.The park office was located in one of the impeccably painted white-with-green-trim buildings. Across the street on the parade ground, students were learning the art of self-defence. We were directed to our campsite and parked in a well-patrolled campground.
We set up our motorhome and started to explore; a paved road led us up to Artillery Hill. The path was well-marked and the trails wide. At the top, a wedding was taking place and the guests, bride and groom had a gorgeous view of the Strait of Juan de Fuca from this high vantage point. It was quiet, and a beautiful setting for this special time.
We continued our walk where bunkers and tunnels were part of the hills. A small clearing overlooked the sea and beach, where another part of the campground was built. This was a busy place with kayaks, boats and canoes being paddled out into Puget Sound. A small building on the beach was once a canteen but now sells groceries and ice cream. The Port Townsend Marine Science Centre is built on the dock; this is a great place to learn about sea life, and a “touch me” tank helps with the experience.
Everywhere we looked the restored buildings were being used as a chapel, theatre or pavilion. Victorian homes and barracks were being rented to vacationers, while musicians and artists were holding workshops and recitals. A very busy creative and educational park, the grounds also have a Scottish castle and lighthouse at Point Wilson.
The gift shop on the base was originally the guardhouse where jail cells are part of the décor. Here we watched a video of the building and history of Fort Worden. During our stay we saw a wedding, and also a funeral for a fallen firefighter. The setting for each was a wonderful choice. Our stay turned into more than we could have imagined. As the ferry pulled away from the dock we looked back at the old buildings and heritage homes nestled in the trees. I will always remember Port Townsend, a visit to the past.
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