VICTORIA, B.C.

Victoria’s grand castles

RVers Duane and Lynda Pilson explore some of this city’s unique history

by DUANE PILSON

When you think of a castle, the image that usually pops into your mind is a cold, dark, damp, musty, haunted structure with hidden passages and a dungeon. My wife, Lynda, and I recently visited Victoria and toured Craigdarroch Castle and Hatley Castle, where we had the opportunity to have this image dispelled.

AN ENCHANTING SIGHT: Take a peek into the luxurious high-society world of the early 1900s. —Duane Pilson photo

The castles were built by a father and son: Robert Dunsmuir constructed Craigdarroch Castle and his son, James Dunsmuir, later built Hatley Castle. Visiting each is a unique experience, with both giving you a glimpse into high society at the turn of the century.

The royal treatment

Craigdarroch Castle, which is an example of a “bonanza castle,” was completed in late 1890 just after the death of Robert Dunsmuir. It has seen many uses over the years—from a home for Robert’s widow, Joan, to a military hospital for First World War veterans, as well as Victoria College, offices for the Victoria School Board and home to the Victoria Conservatory of Music. The Castle Society, a group of people who believed the castle should be turned into a museum, was formed in 1959; however, it was not until 1979—when the Victoria Conservatory of Music vacated the castle—that the society was given the opportunity to operate the castle as a historic house museum. In 1995, the City of Victoria officially handed over ownership of the castle to the Craigdarroch Castle Historical Museum Society, which—due to the efforts of its many volunteers—continues the restoration of the castle to its original condition.

My wife and I highly recommend that anyone visiting Victoria take the time to stop and take a self-guided tour of this unique piece of Canadian history. We walked the halls of the 25,572-square-foot structure, visited the 39 rooms (many which have been restored) and climbed the 87 stairs to the top of the 41⁄2 floors to marvel at the modern Victoria skyline as well as the fantastic view of the Strait of Juan De Fuca towards Washington.

Throughout the castle we were impressed with the exotic woods used, the ornate carvings, the superb craftsmanship everywhere, the wonderful stained and leaded glass windows, and the period furnishings in the restored rooms. As we wandered through the castle, we met volunteers who were more than happy to share their knowledge of the castle’s history, its construction, its furnishings, the many paintings and the fascinating windows.

Unusual visitors

During our stay in Victoria, we were told a story about a local lady who, while visiting the castle, thought she saw a spectre on one of the stairs and called out to it, “Bob you look bored—why don’t you come home with us.” Upon returning home, strange things started happening in her house. Finally, out of desperation, she called out, “Bob, I think it’s time you went home.” Shortly afterwards, the strange occurrences stopped. So, while touring the castle, if you think you see something, you should probably ignore it, or your trip home might not be exactly what you expected.

Lavish inside and out

Hatley Castle, which sits on a 565-acre property, was built in 1908 and is an example of an Edwardian castle. We enjoyed touring the castle and looking at the architecture, workmanship and lavish use of ornate wood and cut glass windows—just as we did at Craigdarroch Castle.

The main difference between the two castles is the spectacular Hatley Gardens, situated in a sheltered coastal setting that provides an ideal growing climate for a diversity of vegetation. The highlight of our visit to these unique gardens was having the opportunity to walk along well-groomed trails that took us through groves of massive trees and three formal theme gardens dating back to the early 1900s: Japanese, Rose and Italian.

This was by far the most relaxed experience my wife and I had during this particular visit to Victoria. Like they say, to really enjoy life, “take the time to stop and smell the roses”—and boy, did we!

While at Hatley Castle, you can visit the museum (which was closed for renovations during our visit) and learn about the history of the castle during the time it was used as a training facility for Canada’s military. This is one place you’ll want to make sure you have your camera with you.

DETAILS:

Craigdarroch Castle is an eight-minute drive from the inner harbour, up Fort Street, right on Joan Crescent.

Hatley Castle is located at the Royal Roads University campus in Victoria. Take the Island Highway (Trans-Canada Highway) northwest to exit 10 for Colwood and Sooke onto the Old Island Highway (#14). Travel southwest for three kilometres and turn left at the university entrance.

RESOURCES:

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