Vancouver Island
Underground adventures
Go spelunking on Vancouver Island
and explore the Horne Lake Caverns
Climb a subterranean waterfall in the morning, strap on the snowshoes in the afternoon and then relax with a scotch by a warm crackling fire in the evening. Winter is no time to put away your adventurous spirit.

Phasellus THE VIEWS FROM BELOW: Horne Lake Caverns are home to a variety of unusual rock and crystal formations. -photos courtesy Kristal Hemsworth
So if you need a change of scenery this winter, consider looking at the earth from the inside out.
“Where else will you get to do things like climb up an underground waterfall and see rare crystal rock formations without being some hardcore National Geographic adventurer?” said Richard Varela, manager of Island Pacific Adventures, the company that leads tours in Horne Lake Caves Provincial Park.
The three-hour Wet and Wild Spelunking Adventure tour, available in the winter and spring only, focuses on the ice age water forces that created one of the largest and most spectacular karst (eroded limestone) systems in North America.
“When you are standing in the caves yelling over the roaring, splashing water, it adds weight to the description of the tons of water from the melting ice ages that bore right through the mountains to carve these caves,” said Varela.
Interest in caving has grown in recent years, along with the growth of adventure and eco-tourism. People are attracted to both the physical and mental challenges in caving, as well as the sense of exploration and discovery found in going into the unknown.
Anyone with a moderate fitness level and aged eight years or older can participate in the tour.
No thank you Hollywood
Whether it’s snakes from Indiana Jones, horcruxes from Harry Potter, or the predatory cave dwellers from The Cave, Hollywood loves to show cavern-lurking creatures.
The worst things you might find in the Horne Lake Caves in winter are daddy-long-legs (harvestman) spiders who come inside the cave entrances to hibernate. So no bats, rats, snakes or flesh-eating monsters—just fascinating rock formations.
A caveman’s grocery list
Bacon strips, moon milk, ice cream waterfall, flowstone and popcorn rock—are these items on a caveman’s grocery list? Not quite—they’re really the names of rock and crystal formations found in Horne Lake Caves.
“Riverbend is probably Canada’s best decorated cave, in terms of its crystal formations,” said Varela. “It is festooned with crystals.”
Some unique formations have been affectionately named after characters which they resemble, such as Jabba the Hut, Piglet, Winnie the Pooh, Howling Wolf and Smiling Buddha.
Out of 123 of the longest and deepest caves in North America, 76 are on Vancouver Island. Riverbend is 387 metres (1,270 feet) long and features a seven-storey waterfall.
Tasty trout, scotch on the rocks
For those who prefer their adventure above ground, the Horne Lake Campground & Outdoor Centre is open year-round. And the lake is stocked with cutthroat and rainbow trout for excellent fishing, especially in fall and spring. Island Pacific Adventures offers canoe, kayak and fishing gear rental throughout the winter.
But in the winter, evening comes early and after a day of subterranean adventure, you’ll want to rise above it all. Perhaps a taste of heaven will do the trick, with a drop or two of what some consider nectar of the gods—scotch whiskey. With its earthy, smoky flavours, it is a natural complement to caving.
The region beside the sea
Perched over the sheltered waters of Vancouver Island’s Inside Passage, Parksville, Qualicum Beach and the many charming beachfront communities (referred to as the Oceanside region), welcome visitors. The area has unforgettable scenery, restaurants, accommodation from bed and breakfasts to first-class spa resorts and year-round golf courses.
B.C.’s best natural outdoor site
It’s a rare opportunity when Mother Earth invites us deep into her home and the caves at Horne Lake remain for the most part undeveloped and in their natural state. They have no permanent lighting or man-made walkways. Recently they were named the Best Natural Outdoor Site in B.C. by Attractions Canada.
Few wild places in the world are left unseen or unexplored, and even fewer still are accessible without a lot of expense and equipment.
Horne Lake Caves are within easy reach and offer a uniquely West Coast wet and wild winter adventure.
RESOURCES: Horne Lake Caves Provincial Park
Phone: 250-757-8687 (information)
250-248-7829 (reservations)
Email: info@hornelake.com
Website: www.hornelake.com
• Oceanside Tourism Association
Phone: 1-888-799-3222 or 250-248-6300
Website: www.visitparksvillequalicumbeach.com
• Tourism British Columbia
Phone: 1-800-HELLO BC (435-5622)
Website: www.hellobc.com
Margo Malcolm is a freelance writer based in Victoria, B.C., who has written travel articles on a wide range of topics. Most recently, these have included snowbirding, the Railway Roundhouse at Three Valley Gap, surfing in Tofino, fishing in Ucluelet and Port Alberni’s heritage sites.