Saskatchewan
Life is a waterway
Canoe tours of the historic Saskatchewan rivers are unforgettable
Saskatchewan is a province of subtle landscapes and a fascinating history. I once heard it described as having “a beauty that whispers.” And with the myriad rivers that criss-cross Sask-atchewan, one of the best ways to see some of the intriguing sights is from a canoe.
The Mists Of Time: The history of rivers in northern Saskatchewan will stay with you forever.—photo by Cliff Speer
Cliff Speer, who has spent 19 years traversing the province with a paddle in hand, never ceases to be astonished by the immense history and scenery of the land. Speer owns an ecotourism company, CanoeSki, providing guests with guided tours of Saskatchewan’s waterways. Combining an interest in history, botany, archeology and nature, Speer shows a side of Saskatchewan that can’t be seen from the highway.
Many of the important rivers in Saskatchewan—those used by the voyageurs on their epic journeys across the country as part of the fur trade—begin in the Rocky Mountains, converging in Saskatchewan, then flowing through Manitoba and into Hudson Bay. David Thompson used many of these waterways more than 200 years ago when exploring the region. Speer finds special significance in this area.
“(Thompson helped) build the South Branch house, which is a fort that is on the South Saskatchewan River just south of Batoche,” said Speer. “There’s nothing there now; it’s just an archeological site . . . however, we know Thompson was there for eight months.”
The fort was later attacked by native tribes and all the inhabitants were massacred, but it remains an important historical site, if one that is not well known. Speer said the site is well off the beaten track but easily accessible by canoe.
One of Speer’s favourite journeys is along the Churchill River in northern Sask-atchewan, which he described as “one of the best canoeing waterways in the world.” The river also has over 20 documented aboriginal pictograph sites—paintings by the First Nations people who lived in the area before European settlement.
“We have an incredible connection to precontact and well beyond precontact history of this area of the province through this aboriginal rock art,” said Speer. “There’s a lot of mystery connected with it about vision quests and the symbolic representations of shamans and their activities.”
Many of the tours include a Cree guide to provide a First Nations perspective on the significance of the pictographs and history of the region, giving visitors a unique insight into the area. The combination of European and First Nations stories of pre- and post-European settlement will stay with guests forever—as will the landscapes.
“It’s absolutely stunning,” said Speer. “If only people knew about these kind of resources, we would be inundated, but it’s a well-kept secret at this point.”
RESOURCES:
www.canoeski.com/index.htm
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