Kootenay Rockies
By land, water and air
When touring this region, planes, trains and automobiles are just the start
More people are discovering what those who live in the Kootenay Rockies region of B.C. already know—this is an area of serious beauty. From the rugged peaks of the Rockies to the pristine, mirror-smooth lakes throughout the area; from untamed wilderness to artistic cultural events, the Kootenay Rockies have it all. And the ways of seeing the region are as abundant as what there is to see.
Fast-Paced Fun: The grins are contagious when negotiating whitewater.-photo courtesy Kimberley Raft Co.
Up, up and away
One of the most dramatic sights near Cranbrook is Fisher Peak. It is easily the most visible landmark in the area and one that has intrigued locals for centuries. The hike to the very top is challenging and certainly not for every level of fitness, but Fisher Peak is still accessible to others—by helicopter. Chartered helicopter tours are often available throughout the summer, and the view as you soar above the trees, the rivers and the hoodoos is amazing. Even from several hundred metres away, the peak looks so close you think you could reach out and touch it. As a general rule, the pilots discourage that.
For something completely beyond the ordinary, try tandem paragliding. Experienced pilots in Golden provide guests with a thrill beyond compare as they launch from the top of Mount 7. This is as close as you can get to actual flying. The sail pulls you up, coasting on the same thermals that eagles ride. Except for the sound of the wind rushing by, there is no sound—and the views are stunning. Be warned: this is not an activity for the faint of heart or nervous of stomach. Teens and healthy adults will love this experience, though—and Gravol can always be taken to counteract any airsickness symptoms.
The path of the iron horse
B.C. joined Confederation in 1871 with the promise of a railroad, and the railway was a very important part of opening the region up to commerce. When the last spike was hammered home in 1885, connecting B.C. to the rest of Canada, the sound of a steam engine reverberated through the Rockies. Train travel to the region was made fashionable by Lady Agnes MacDonald, the wife of Canada’s first prime minister, Sir John A. MacDonald. After Lady Agnes made the inaugural journey west by train—a great part of that sitting on the cowcatcher of the locomotive, which afforded her the best views—anyone from migrant workers to society’s mucky-mucks were climbing aboard the trains and travelling westward.
The Kootenay Rockies remembers and celebrates its connection to rail travel. The Revelstoke Railway Museum is a wonderful interactive site for old and young. It has an outstanding collection of historical trains and archives, and interpreters can often guide children through a hands-on tour of the old locomotives.
The museum also oversees the operation of the site of the Last Spike near Craigellachie, 45 kilometres west of Revelstoke. The 14 intervening years between when B.C. joined Confederation and when that last spike was driven into the ground were fundamental to building a country—at a
very high political and financial cost.
Riding the rails is possible farther south. Fort Steele Heritage Town is famous for its beautiful site that portrays the gold rush-era town during its peak in 1898. However, steam engine aficionados gravitate to the park for a chance to ride on the 1077, a 2-6-2 engine—two wheels are located at the front of the engine, six wheels drive it, and two are at the rear—built in 1924 by the Montreal Locomotive Works. As the train sits at the station, it huffs and snorts in the same manner as the Clydesdale horses grazing near by; for this reason, aboriginal people used to refer to the steam trains as “iron horses.”
During the summer, the 1077 makes six round-trip journeys per day out to a spectacular lookout that will give passengers an unparalleled view of the convergence of the Kootenay and St. Mary rivers. Gazing up at the Rockies and Fisher Peak to the east and the Purcells to the west, you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve found paradise.
At the Canadian Museum of Rail Travel in Cranbrook, take a guided tour of the luxurious cars that used to carry the well-to-do along the CPR lines. These cars are in various stages of restoration. Many have been lovingly restored to their original glory, while others show how damaging the effects of time and neglect can be.
Kimberley is the home of the historic Sullivan Mine and the Underground Mining Railway. The train follows the tracks up the hill, giving passengers a view of the Mark Creek Valley as interpreters explain the history of the city and its connection to the now-closed Sullivan Mine. The train passes through the underground interpretive area before climbing to its apex at Kimberley Alpine Resort.
The beautiful downtown area of Nelson can be seen while riding on the Nelson Electric Tramway. The tram runs between Nelson’s city hall and Lakeside Rotary Park. It’s not only a convenient way to get from here to there; it’s also a charming step back in time.
Merrily, life is but a dream
RVers who have travelled through the Kootenay Rockies are already well familiar with the rich tapestry of sights, sounds and scents in the region. Even when you pull off the highway to stretch your legs, you can feel the inviting warmth in the air, smell the pine and cedar and hear the songbirds native to the region. It’s understandable, then, that you might think you’ve experienced the best of the region by simply driving through it. But you haven’t. This is a place that is virtually overflowing with streams, rivers and lakes, and seeing the region from the water can make a good vacation even better. There is a water adventure for everyone, from
gentle guided float tours to whitewater rafting—and almost everything in between.
The mighty Columbia River, which has its headwaters in the Columbia Valley, is an important resource to the people who live in the Kootenay Rockies. Float tours based in Golden offer a chance to see some of the incredible flora and fauna of the Columbia River Wetlands, and guests often come away with a greater understanding of the importance of this area.
Whitewater rafting is an exhilarating rush for older children and adults alike. From the Elk River near Fernie to the Kicking Horse River outside of Golden and the St. Mary River near Kimberley, whitewater rafting companies offer thrills and spills. Guides provide safety gear, wetsuits and instruction and then hit the rapids with gusto. While it’s natural to be somewhat timid when you first push off from the shore with your paddle, by midway through the excursion, you’ll feel your pulse race with anticipation as you get ready for the next wild ride over the rapids.
The abundant lakes in the area offer pristine and peaceful spots for canoeing or kayaking; most lakes are swimmable as well. Wasa Lake has some of the warmest waters in the Kootenay Rockies and is a favourite destination with RVers for that reason. And for those who don’t find lake and river waters nearly warm enough for a dip, there are numerous natural and developed mineral hot springs throughout the region. Soaking in the healing waters can give the weary traveller a chance to reflect on the adventures they’ve enjoyed.
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