Ruby Valley, Nevada
Off the beaten path
Ruby Lake National Wildlife Refuge is one of the most remote refuges in the lower 48 states
Before my wife Marguerite and I retired and started RVing, we thought nothing of going shopping for groceries or clothing. We just got in our car and drove to the nearest mall. Imagine our shock when, after arriving at our summer volunteer assignment, we discovered that the nearest town was 65 miles away. Lucky for us, it was summertime and Harrison Pass was open. Otherwise, in winter, when the pass is closed, the town is 92 miles away. How’s that for remoteness!
Jewel Of The Desert: Nestled in the Great Basin of the West, Ruby Lake National Wildlife Refuge is home to pristine marshes, meadows, grasslands, and shrub-steppe uplands.—photo by Jeff Mackay
Ruby Lake National Wildlife Refuge in north central Nevada is one of the most isolated refuges in the lower 48 states. We spent the summer of 2005 there and experienced living in a very remote place.
Now, what is it like to serve at Ruby Lake NWR? It's pretty nice since the refuge is located at an elevation of 6,000 feet above sea level at the base of the snow capped Ruby Mountains, which are over 9,000 feet high. Our fifth-wheel RV was set up at the base of the mountains with 10,000-acres of marshland in front of us and the Maverick Hills far off to the east.
The marsh is fed by water from 160 springs along the base of the mountains, either directly or via the Collection Ditch. In 1972, the South Marsh was designated by the National Park Service as a National Natural Landmark because of its biological diversity and pristine habitat. Both the North and South Marsh are home to more than 220 species of birds, plus seven pairs of Trumpeter Swans and many ducks and geese. Taking a drive along the 7.5-mile auto tour is fascinating, especially at twilight as the sun turns the mountains ruby red—The shadows on the hills are spectacular when you head south on the North Marsh. The Ruby Mountains got their name from this ruby-coloured sunset.
In addition to wildlife, the area has many points of interest, including Hastings Cutoff which goes right past the refuge headquarters. The route was advertised by Lansford Hastings as a shortcut to California but Hastings never travelled this route and it was actually longer by three days; the Donner party learned this fact the hard way.
Fort Ruby was established in 1862 to protect immigrants. The Pony Express Station nearby is now part of the refuge, although very little of the fort remains. It was closed in 1869 and eventually became a private holding. During its lifetime, the fort was known as the worst assignment in the U.S. Army.
Another point of interest is Deadman’s Canyon which leads to Bronco Charlie Cave—a rather mysterious place. The cave was the base for prehistoric hunters thousands of years ago. A fellow volunteer and I tried to find this cave on a number on occasions, following the directions in the thesis of a Ph. D. graduate student, but to no avail. Cave Creek, however, located right behind our trailer, was much easier to find, but impossible to explore. Roaring water rushes out of the cave and the entrance is blocked by an iron gate. Three soldiers from Fort Ruby supposedly died there while going for a swim one summer and rumour has it that their ghosts still frequent the place.
The road from hell
Harrison Pass and Secret Pass both lead you to more civilized parts. Secret Pass takes you to Elko, NV, which is 92 miles away, on an all-weather, well-maintained paved road. Harrison Pass is a shorter journey of 65 miles that also take you to Elko, but is only open during good weather. The reason for this is it is literally the road from hell—four and a half miles of twisting, turning, unpaved, un-maintained, white-knuckle driving.
When heading to Elko, a driver stays close to the side of the mountain which leads to the top of the Ruby Mountains. The last mile is uphill at a 10 per cent ascent. However, coming back to the refuge is another story. The trip starts out pretty good as the view from the top of the mountain is spectacular and the North Marsh is visible below. It is fantastic, but then the fun starts. A driver has to travel on the cliff side and descend all the way down while staying in the middle of the narrow dirt road, praying that no one is coming up the hill around a blind bend. That is scary.
Back to civilization
If you are successful in getting to Elko, there are a number of places to see on the other side of the mountain. There are a couple of State Parks that have primitive camping as well as the Lamoille Canyon, off to the north, which has spectacular views. Good fishing can be found at Angle Lake, where you may also search for gemstones like garnets.
Remember, you are in Nevada, so there are plenty of casinos for those who enjoy gambling. Good restaurants are also available, especially those that specialize in food from the Basque country since many people from that area settled here in the early part of the twentieth century. The Northern Nevada Museum is on the main drag and contains an extensive collection on local history and of Bing Crosby, who had a ranch in this area.
Lastly, the local airline flies in and out of large cities to bring people into the casinos. The cost of the fare plus a few nights in a nice hotel is very reasonable.
Thus, besides being one of the most remote refuges in the lower 48 states, Ruby Lake NWR is a very fascinating and interesting place. Our four and a half months there were exciting and fun. When we pulled out in early October to head back to Texas, the snow was starting to form on the upper reaches of the Ruby Mountains. What a send-off.
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