Earlimart, California
Visit a historical cultural milestone
Gateway to African-American history at Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park
Historical reflections: Rustic farm equipment and wagons are dispersed through town, further recalling the era and the town’s agrarian past.—photo credit: George Ostertag
As the United States, and, yes, the world, bask in the milestone celebration of the election of the first African-American U.S. president, you might be interested to learn about an earlier cultural milestone preserved in the California state ark system—a model African-American settlement, Allensworth. This experimental town, established in 1908, was the first of its kind in the United States and the only one in California fully founded, funded and governed by African-Americans. The park is Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park, in the Central Valley off Highway 99.
At its height, the town boasted a population of 200 hard-working African-American pioneers. It was led by and named for Colonel Allen Allensworth—a former slave, chaplain, and the highest-ranking African-American officer of his day. The concept behind this town was to create place where emancipated African-Americans could dwell and succeed in a supportive atmosphere and, at the same time, gain the skills and education needed to compete in the outside white world. The town succeeded, but it could not overcome a drop in the water table and the untimely death of the beloved colonel. Without crops or a leader, its townspeople drifted away.
Today, out on the open grassland, key buildings have been restored and reconstructed, and the process continues as the town enters its second century. Gone are the gushing artesian wells, the flourishing crops and the productive trout streams, but the town’s story spills through. Here, you can walk the streets of tidy, crackerbox homes; listen to recordings of early resident recollections and peek into the windows at the lives and lifestyles of this once thriving community.
Allensworth’s link to the world was the train. Music and books were cherished, and the schoolhouse, library and Baptist church cupped the town’s heart and hope.
Touring is either by self-guided or by prearranged guided tour. A video at the visitor centre sets the stage, as does a collection of photographs, documents and mementoes. Plaques at each structure identify the owners, their occupations and how each building served the community. At the onsite campground, you can awaken, as the original residents did, to meadowlark songs. Scurrying rabbits and burrowing owls round out the neighbourhood.
Details
A short drive south along Highway 1 took us through Grover Beach and into Arroyo Grande, with its picturesque beach towns along the coast. We visited a bustling farmer’s market in a tree-lined park, where strawberries were the size of golf balls and jars of homemade jams and jellies sparkled in the sun.
- Hours: The park is open year-round, with the historic town open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
- Access: The park sits in Tulare County, in the southern San Joaquin Valley. From State Highway 99 in Earlimart (between Visalia and Bakersfield), take the Alpaugh exit and head west on County Road J22 (Sierra Way) for about eight miles to State Highway 43. Head 2.1 miles south on CA 43 and turn right onto Palmer Avenue, crossing the railroad tracks to enter the park.
- Camping: The park has a 15-site campground and summers can be hot. Additional camping is found 40 miles northeast, near Porterville. Park Information: (661) 849-3433; www.parks.ca.gov .
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