Ask an RV tech

Slide-out issues

We just bought a 2001 Triple E Embassy last year and took it touring Alaska (from northern B.C.) for six weeks. We had no troubles on the whole trip. This summer, however, we have been experiencing trouble with our slide-out. First we couldn't get it to go out so we drove around the yard a bit and it went out. Then it wouldn't go back in. Upon inspection we discovered that there is a reservoir that you need to fill with Dextron II or some such lubricant. It was empty, or nearly so. We put two litres in thinking that would solve the problem but it still took lots of tries and overworking the power button before it finally went in. We left on our little trip and when we arrived at our camping spot we put the slide out with no problem. Then at the end of the weekend the slide would not go back in again. It took lots of tries and much swearing before it finally went back in. Someone told us we need to bleed the air out of the line. Could this be the case, and if so, how do you bleed the air out of the line? Thanks. — Tammie

Hello Tammie, There are a couple of reasons your hydraulic slide-out room will present these problems. Firstly, checking the reservoir was a good start and I trust you filled the tank with the room fully retracted. With the issue you have described I would check the solenoid that provides power to the slide pump when the slide controller switch is activated the next time it fails, a common 12-volt test light can be used to troubleshoot this unit. In regards to bleeding or purging air from the system, different manufacturers have specific listed procedures for this task. If you send me the make and model of your slide system I should be able to provide that info to you. Hope this helps you out. — Reg DeYoung
Battery requirements

Hello Mr. DeYoung. My husband would like to replace his 850-amp battery (used for starting the engine and running appliances) on his 1992 Ford Conquest motorhome, but the dealer requires a group size. My husband recycled the original battery that was in his motorhome, installed an 875 cc-amp battery but now wants the original 1000 cc amps. Unfortunately, he did not jot down the group size of the battery which is required when ordering such a part. Thank you in advance for your reply — Elen

Hello Elen. If you phone your local Ford dealership with the year, engine size and chassis designation (i.e. F-250, F-350, F-450, etc.), they will be
able to best suit your starter battery requirements. A higher cranking amp battery will improve starting in both cold or hot weather
conditions. Thanks for your question. — Reg DeYoung
Fleetwood Bounder with water heater trouble

I have just purchased a 1988 Fleetwood Bounder in almost mint condition (32,000 miles) and it is the first motorhome I have had. Everything on this unit works, but I have had trouble with the hot water heater, (I have just had this unit four days, and preparing it for the road in the next few months). I am pretty well mechanically inclined, but ignorant when it comes to motorhomes, for I have never owned or worked on one. I believe my hot water heater is electric and/or propane, in the compartment you have the gas heater set up, and inside you have a switch on the cabinet face right by the sink that has two buttons labeled, "water heater," and "water pump." The water pump of course is to use water from the holding tank when not hooked up to a water source, and the hot water would also of course be for the hot water. I turned the hot water heater switch on while hooked up to shore power (at my house) just to see if it would get warm/hot, and it didn't. I am assuming then by reading a lot of the postings here that there must be a bypass valve for winterization/draining, that was not turned on and there was no water in the tank. Do you know where the bypass valve may be located on this Fleetwood? Also I have places for three batteries under the hood, and want to put all new ones in, for the others are pretty old. Does the chassis battery used for starting the home, also charge up when you run the generator, along with the other house batteries? Also, do the house batteries charge while driving as the chassis battery will? Heck, I could ask many questions, but my main concern is the hot water. Thank you very much.

Let's start with the water heater. There will likely be a bypass valve or valves located directly behind the water heater inside your motorhome with an access compartment. Some Fleetwood units of that era used a single lever valve that states bypass/normal use within the valve lever. The bottom line is that you must provide water flow to and from the tank, separate from the bypass line. I would start by leaving the drain plug out, located on the outside bottom lefthand corner of the water heater, and after sorting
out the valve positions turn the water on for a few minutes to flush any debris from the tank liner. Put some teflon tape on the drain plug and re-install with a 7/8 socket. Turn the water back on, leave the hot water tap open in the kitchen and wait for the water to flow freely. Then switch the water heater to either propane or 110v and wait at least a half hour or so to complete a cycle. In regards to the batteries, the generator will in most cases not charge the chassis battery—in that there will be a solenoid installed to prevent the RV 12-volt system from draining the starter battery after extended use. When the engine is running the alternator will charge the chassis battery and RV batteries. You may also find a switch on your dash that allows a momentary connection from the RV batteries to help boost the starter battery if it is unable to provide sufficient power.
Furnace squealing

Hi, Reg. Our furnace makes a squealing noise for a couple of seconds when the blower first kicks in, then runs normally. Does that mean the blower cage needs replacing, or could it be loose? —Keith

Hello Keith. When a furnace motor makes a squealing noise in the first seconds of operation, it usually indicates the early stages of motor bearing failure. If you provide the make and model of your furnace to your local RV dealership they can give an estimate for the parts and repair costs. I would advise you to have the furnace fully serviced at that time. Thanks for your question. —Reg DeYoung
Battery comparison

I was just wondering if you have an opinion on 6 volts versus 12 volts, versus solar? Also, what do you think of Optima batteries? —Alma

Hello Alma. The big factor when comparing a 12-volt battery to a six-volt battery is durability. The six-volt battery is constructed with a much

thicker cell material and therefore will withstand more discharges and recharges. When you mention solar batteries I think

you’re referring to the gel cell type battery used for extreme weather conditions. Not only are these batteries very expensive, but

they are not required for normal RV use. The Blue Top Optima RV battery is an absorbed glass mat (AGM) which is similiar to

a gell cell battery, but the electrolyte is absorbed by a fine glass mat. These batteries will recombine the gasses during charging,

eliminating gassing. This factors in very well for marine use, in that they are sometimes installed in confined areas. If you are

primarily doing dry camping or boondocking I would recommend the installation of two six-volts and the addition of a solar

panel or panels. If you're parked at a serviced site, then a good quality 12-volt battery will be satisfactory. Hope this helps you out. —Reg DeYoung
The auxillary switch mystery

Dear Sir, We just bought a 1989 Itasca Sunflyer, our first motor home venture! This vehicle sat for six years, so there were many miscellaneous things wrong with it. Fortunately, my husband has been able to resolve and fix most of the problems. What has him stumped is a light on the dashboard that stays on all the time: it is for the Aux Batt, a rocker switch, it clicks when pushed to the off side, no sound when pushed to the on side and the light is continuous. Nothing is noted in the handbook in regards to this light. Should this light go off? If so, what would you suggest to fix it? Many thanks.
—Cathy

Hello Cathy,

The auxiliary switch is provided to start the motor home in the case of a dead chassis battery. It will momentarily allow the RV battery or batteries to supply power to the engine starter. The switch activates an exciter wire to a solenoid to engage the device to close and draw the power. The light should go off when this system is not required. Try and locate the solenoid, disconnect the RV battery and with a fully charged chassis battery check the dead side of the solenoid to see if the test light glows when the button is pushed to determine proper operation. If it functions satisfactory then the switch on the dash may be faulty.

Thanks for your question,
Reg DeYoung
RVwest
Dual-battery emergency start circuit

Can you explain to me the dual-battery emergency start circuit on a Chevrolet chassis, or draw a simple diagram, or refer me to a wiring diagram? Thank You.
Jim

Hello Jim. The dual-battery emergency start system utilizes the RV battery or batteries to momentarily supply power to the engine starter if the chassis battery is drawn down too low to start the engine. Once the engine has started the alternator should charge all the batteries. There is usually a solenoid that closes to provide the power via the dash-mounted switch. Hope this helps you out. Reg DeYoung
Help me see the light(s)

I have no running lights or tail lights on my fifth wheel when hooked to my tow vehicle. Only the driver’s side blinker is still working on the fifth wheel. The passenger side blinker is not. The running lights and tail lights were working, but after replacing and switching bulbs around and starting the truck repeatedly, the outside lights have quit. I don’t understand what happened. How exactly does the converter work? Is it supposed to be on (I have a manual switch), when I’m dry camping? Does that have anything to do with the outside lights not working? Thanks for any help.

Hello. Depending on the year and make of your tow vehicle, your problem could be with the designated fuses for the trailer tow package. They should be located in the fuse panel under the hood, and with the help of the panel cover or your manual you can check the fuses and replace them as needed. In regards to the converter, this device will provide 12-volt power when plugged into an outside power source in the switched converter position. When you are dry camping the switch will be in the battery position to provide power from the RV battery. This type of system is usually found on tent trailers or truck campers. The outside running /signal lights are separate from the interior or porch lights. Thanks for your questions. —Reg DeYoung
Furnace fan keeps running

Hello there, I have a 2005 Dutchman Travel Trailer. My furnace fan keeps running when it’s turned off. If I turn it on, it will still light and blow hot air but the fan keeps running no matter what position the switch is in. Could you tell me if this is something you have heard of—and if I can fix it myself?
Thank you for your time. —Disgruntled Camper

The problem could be a faulty thermostat or stuck fan relay. I would suspect the fan relay, and this is not a job you should do yourself. Your local RV service centre can have the fan relay changed quickly especially if the furnace is a Atwood model which has easy access to the part. The Suburban model may take a little longer to change the part.

Hope this helps you out. —Reg DeYoung
Surveyor slide-out

Hello Reg, I own a 2008 23.5 RS Surveyor travel trailer with a queen slide at the rear of the trailer. I have experienced a few problems with it opening and closing. The dealer where I bought it from has fixed it twice, once under warranty and once not. Is there a manual crank mechanism built into this model to open and close the rear slide? My dealer does not seem to know. Thanks Reg. —Keith

Hello, Keith. If you gain access to the slide motor via the under bed storage, you should be able to locate a nut that will allow you to manually extend or retract the slide room. Some models may have a small lever to disengage the motor clutch assembly to make manual operation easier.

Thanks for your question. —Reg DeYoung
Weak floor in a Fleetwood Bounder

The floor of my RV has a history of soft areas. The first one appeared while it was still under warranty—the factory removed the linoleum in the kitchen, and did the repair. We’re not sure just how the repair was done. Since then there have been other areas with the same problem. I removed a section of the top 1/4” plywood, which was adhered to Styrofoam and tubular steel, and replaced it with new plywood thinking it might be stronger. My question is this: Since there has never been water damage and the floor is not rotten, might I install additional tubular steel across those areas that need the support? Also, might I try cement backer board or similar material in replacement of plywood?

You can install square tubing in areas that you feel could use the extra support. Also, there are products available that can be used with Styrofoam (PL 300 is an excellent product, available at many hardware stores). If you stick with plywood for a floor substrate you shouldn’t have any problems. Installing self-tapping screws in the plywood through to the square tubing may add additional strength to the floor structure. Hope this helps you out. —Reg DeYoung
Possible fuel pump failure

Last month I started up my unit as usual with no problem. However, when I attempted to do so recently, it turned over but did not start. I checked for sparks at the coil lead and the plugs are all okay. I looked for fuses and relays that may be relevant but could not locate any. I do not have a proper service manual to troubleshoot the problem. I also tapped the side of the fuel tank with a soft-faced mallet while my son turned over the unit in case the fuel pump was stuck or seized, with no luck. I do not smell any fuel, and suspect that the pump has failed unless there is a control issue. Thanks for your assistance. —John

Hello John. My experience with the chassis of an RV is limited, but it sounds as though the electric fuel pump has failed. There will be a fuse for the relay located in the fuse panel and the pump relay may also be located there. My advice to you is to determine what engine you have and then go to your local library. You can then find the motor manual for your particular engine and further research your issue pertaining to fuses, relays or safety switches. In the case of working with the fuel lines, fuel pumps, etc. please have a qualified technician do the work. Thanks for your question. —Reg DeYoung
Weight on the axles

My trailer will be parked on a seasonal site for a few years. It might be towed once or twice but for the most part it will remain at one location. When blocking the trailer, should all the weight be taken off the axles, should it be left on the axles, or does it really matter either way? I have been told both ways over the years. Thank you. —Wade

Hello Wade,

You don’t really need to take the weight off the axles. With a park model unit they will remove the wheels to properly block the structure. Lately at our dealership, we have received calls of leaking slide seals or entrance doors jamming up. When I arrived on site, in both cases the RV was blocked improperly with excessive pressure being exerted on the frame, basically bending the trailer from front to back. If you level the trailer without blocking, then just install the blocks carefully to only stabilize the trailer, and it will work much better. Thanks for your question. —Reg DeYoung
Little Gem measurements

I recently purchased a Shiebout Little Gem camper. I think it is 17 feet but I’m not sure which points to measure from and to. The serial number is 5572. I would like to know what year it was made—can anyone help me? —Randal

Hello Randal. The Schiebout Little Gems were built in Grand Rapids, MI. The are a couple of sites available for info on these neat little RVs.
If you Google the name there are numerous sites available discussing everything from the history of the company to tips on renovating. I hadn’t heard of these vintage trailers before your email, but I now look forward to researching them more myself. Thanks for your question. —Reg DeYoung
Palomino electric systems

I have a 1998 Palomino Mustang that I bought brand new, and I have had minimal problems over the years. I’m getting ready to flush the water system for the new camping season, and when I hook a new battery up, it blows the 30-amp fuse on the positive cable. I’ve looked everywhere for a break/damage in the wiring and can find none. I direct wired it and blew the 30-amp in the converter. I checked with a voltage meter and am getting 12.58 at the battery, 12.58 where the lead wires connect to the rest of the harness and 12.58 at the converter at the 30-amp slot. I am also getting 12.45 at the refrigerator connection but can get no reading on the push button under the sink and have no power to the water pump. HELP! I’m supposed to be taking my wife to the mountains for Mother’s Day. —Helpless in New Mexico

It sure sounds like you have the battery cables hooked up backwards. When you have black and red, the black will be negative and the red will be positive. When you have black and white, the black will be positive and the white will be negative.

The fuses in the main positive line and the converter are protection against reverse polarity or short circuits. Have the battery checked by an RV or Automotive dealer to ensure it is ok before you get started with checking the polarity.

You stated your water pump and safety switch by the sink are showing no power, that may be the area where the wiring is causing a short and a quick check of the fuses will determine any problems. Remove all the fuses except the main line fuse and hook up the battery, then start putting the fuses back in to hopefully find which circuits are faulty.
Hope this helps you out. —Reg DeYoung
Canadian-built units

I’m flying to Kelowna this weekend to buy our next motorhome. I’m then driving her back to her new home here on the Island (Victoria). I’m having trouble finding information on these Canadian-built units and suspect they are rare. Can you steer me to anyone who would be able to answer some questions I have about them? Thanks for your time and trouble. —Terry Anderson

Hello Terry. In cases like this it is best to go to your local RV dealership for a show-through with respect to the appliances, electrical and water systems. You should also have an LP gas inspection done to ensure all the LP appliances are functioning properly and leak-free. If you are the do-it-yourself type, your local library will have some excellent reference books to familiarize you with the various components. Hope this helps you out. —Reg DeYoung
Cleaning up after rodents

We recently purchased a 2004 Prowler fifth-wheel. It has been stored outside and had some mice residing in it. Most of the droppings were in the undercarriage, however there are also droppings and tracks in the heat vents in the floor. What is the best way to clean and disinfect the ductwork? —Sarah

Hello, Sarah. If you contact your local residential duct cleaning business, they will be able to use their equipment to clean the ductwork effectively. If you feel the mice are still residing in the RV, the next call may be to a pest control specialist. —Reg DeYoung
The best generator

I was wondering what light duty generator you recommend? I do not plan on running my air conditioner. —Ray

Hello, Ray. You would be best suited to purchase a generator with inverter technology to provide a clean and stable power source for electronic equipment like computers, flat screen TVs, etc. If you’re not running your air conditioner you can purchase a generator in and around the 2,000-watt range and manufacturers like Cummins Onan, Generac, Kohler, Yamaha and Honda all produce good quality gen sets. Portable or “contractor” generators tend to be a little noisier than RV generators and if there is a suitable location to mount an RV gen set in your unit, you should consider an estimate from your local RV dealer.—Reg DeYoung
Switching from gas to electric

I have a 1998 Coachman fifth-wheel camper and I’m having trouble with my fridge—it will work on LP gas but will not switch over to electric. It has an AUTO option on the board and that’s what I run it on but will not switch over. I turn it on and it just goes straight onto LP gas and then the “check” light comes on. I’ve checked out the receptacle and it’s got the correct voltage! Do you have any suggestions?

There is a circuit board located at the back side of the fridge and behind the cover are some fuses that protect the incoming 12-volt power and the 110-volt AC “pocket” heater. Unplug the fridge and check the fuse; if the fuse is fine, then you may have a failed AC heater which will cause the fridge to switch to LP gas in the AUTO mode while plugged into 110-volt power.—Reg DeYoung
Lifting linoleum

I have a question concerning the flooring in some RV units—where we find the linoleum split and cracked in the spring after the unit has been sitting over the winter. It appears that it is only glued on the perimeter of the floor, leaving the centre to lift. My question is, could laminate or a form of stick-together floating floor be used in the place of linoleum, and should one glue it down? I am searching for alternatives to the linoleum as I see this failure is only covered under a base warranty and most insurance companies do not cover it. —Steve

Hello Steve. I would not advise you to put laminate flooring in your RV. This type of product is excellent for residential use, but will not stand up well to the extreme temperature changes and excessive moisture of an RV. You should contact your local lino installer for an estimate. Once the new material has been installed with the proper adhesive, your splitting and cracking issue will not be a problem in the future. —Reg DeYoung
Slide-out hang-ups

I have an Ameri-Camp trailer with slide-outs in the dining and kitchen areas and the dining area slide-out is hanging up when I retract and expand the room. My question is this: what is the best way to readjust the slides to bring them into proper alignment? The slide-out has two worm drive tracks with a stabilizer bar. Any help will be greatly appreciated. —Jerry

Hello Jerry. The first tip I can provide is that any adjustments to a slide-out room must be done in small increments. I would first have a helper extend and retract the room while you have a visual of the top of the slide-out room to hopefully determine where the structure is hanging up. If the room is sticking in one corner then you can drop that corner by utilizing the adjustment bolts on the bottom side of the room located at the end of the track, with the room in the fully extended position. Then cycle the slide a couple of times for signs of improvement. With regard to safety, always keep your hands away from any components of the slide assemblies while the room is being cycled and stay in contact with your helper at all times. —Reg DeYoung
TV upgrades

We have a 1998 Dutch Star diesel pusher and would like to upgrade the televisions from the old CRT style. Do you know of a conversion kit for placing new flat screens in the front and bedroom without butchering the cabinets. Is there a facility in the Calgary area that performs this type of service? —Dave and Deb

Sorry, I’m not aware of any kits available to upgrade to flat screen TV’s. If you take your motorhome to your local RV dealership that sells and services these units, they’ll be able to help you out. —Reg DeYoung
Broken seal

I have a Dutchman 2000 travel trailer with a slide in the living room/dining area. When we retracted the slide for the winter storage it was a tight seal. When we checked it in about two months the slide had moved out at the bottom, breaking the seal. It had moved out around five inches. What would be causing this? No power was on to the camper. Please reply. —Marcy

Hello, Marcy. If you go to the underside of your RV and locate the slide motor, there will be a lever at the back side of the motor that disengages a brake assembly used when putting the slide out manually in the event of a motor failure. If this lever is not placed in the normal operating position, the slide will creep out over time after it has been retracted. —Reg DeYoung
Holding tank gauge reads empty

I have a 1997 Itasca (30-foot) with 24,000 miles. I just purchased it as is, and everything is working fine except the water holding tank always reads empty. I have checked the four connections on the tank: 1/3, 2/3, full, ground—all are tight and clean all other gauges are reading correctly. Could you give me any ideas on what to look for? The tank is full of water, I checked and verified by sound and sight. —Vince

Hello, Vince. You can troubleshoot the tank wiring by using a test light. First connect the ground clip to the ground probe at the tank, then touch each probe while a helper pushes the indicator switch. If there is not a signal to the indicator light, try adding a new ground wire to the ground probe and re-check. A failed signal at this time may be caused by a dead diode pack, which will be located near the tank, and has all of the tank probe wiring connected to this unit. —Reg DeYoung
Soft spot in the roof

I have a 2005 Jayco 31BHS. It’s on a permanent site in Maine and isn’t likely to be moved anytime soon. I basically put my knee through a seam in the pieces of roof plywood while hauling boxes on the roof to cover the vents for the winter a couple of years ago. It’s right at the edge of the roof just in about a foot from the rear awning support bracket. I did not penetrate the rubber roof membrane so there are no leaks but I’m afraid that me or someone else is going to put their foot through the spot that is now soft and tear the roof membrane in the process. The spot itself is about about 10” x 10”. I’m thinking about screwing an 18” x 18” piece of 1/2” StarBoard or Marine Plywood directly over the soft spot with some counter sunk stainless wood screws spaced around the perimeter, and then completely sealing around the patch. I am wondering what your opinion of this is and what you would recommend using for the sealing portion of this project? —Scott

Hello, Scott. The best way to repair this damage requires a little effort, but will be more effective than putting screws into the rubber roof material. You will need to first remove the upper awning bracket, then remove the screws in the awning track moulding just enough to provide access to the roof material. Just pull the rubber roof up and do your best to repair the broken OSB. Then apply some rubber roof adhesive to re-glue the rubber roof material. The reason your foot went through the roof may be a result of a soft or rotted spot in this corner and this repair may require some extensive work, best left to an RV service centre. —Reg DeYoung
DIY help

I purchased a used fifth wheel and thought it was in excellent condition until I realized there was a soft spot on the floor just in front of the sink and counter. I am attempting to do the repairs myself but need a little instruction on removing the kitchen cabinets, specifically the countertop. When I removed some of the lino in that area I found a rotten floor and some rot in the joists themselves so need to do a complete disassemble in order to determine the source of the moisture and to make the necessary repairs. The unit is a 1996 Travelaire Prestige 250 with the kitchen in the back of the unit. Any help you can give me would be appreciated. —Alfred

Hello, Alfred. The kitchen countertop will sometimes have screws located in the structure directly under the counter itself. Unfortunately the cupboard structure can be affixed with the screws being installed from the outside—and in this case the framing will have to be destroyed to remove the counter base. The source of water leakage may have been a loose water fitting. I have also seen the inner fender liners cause a water leak from lack of sealant in some areas. If you have any further inquiries feel free to send your questions or concerns. —Reg DeYoung
Golden Falcon procedures

I recently purchased a 1986 Golden Falcon 27-foot travel trailer from a private owner. There is no owner’s manual. I have searched so many web sites, but had no luck. Do you know where I can find one? Also the pedestal table in the living room looks like it should come out in order for the sofa to fold down, but we can’t get it to budge. Does it just lift out, and if so, how do we loosen it up? —Chris

Hello, Chris. You’re going to have a hard time finding a manual for your Golden Falcon. If you are unsure about operating the appliances you should have an RV technician provide some assistance in proper start-up procedures. In regards to the kitchen table, if you fold the leg up and tip the table upward, the clips will release and allow you to swing the table in between the dinette benches. —Reg DeYoung
A new career

I would really like to become an RV technician. Going to Kelowna for seven months of pre-apprenticeship training would prove extremely difficult. How is the market doing right now, what is the likelihood of getting on somewhere with zilch experience, and how much might that pay? —Jonathan

The RV industry has felt the impact of the recession, but from what I have read, it is regaining momentum and will hopefully continue to build. You could go to your local RV dealership and speak with the owner or service manager to discuss your interest in becoming an RV technician. Some dealers welcome the idea of in-house training for new employees. When you have completed two years on the job at a dealership, you can write your BC RV gas fitters test, and after six years experience you can write or challenge the exam to receive your journeyman qualification. It would not be uncommon to be paid $17 to $19 per hour to start at a larger dealership, and if the dealership offers factory training in addition to the regular day-to-day experience, then you will be well on your way. —Reg DeYoung
Slide-out issues

We have a 2006 Damon Day breaker. We noticed this weekend a lot of condensation in bedroom (we have a slide-out) what can we do to prevent this? —Janet

Hello, Janet. To prevent condensation in this area, you should first provide some ventilation or air movement by either opening the window or the roof vent slightly. You could also locate a Dry-Z-Air kit in the bedroom to help reduce moisture levels. An auxiliary heat source, like a portable ceramic heater, may also reduce condensation if the furnace heat ducts are not supplying enough warm air. Hope this helps you out. —Reg DeYoung
Cranking and clicking

I have a 1992 Gulfstream, Sunstream model with a 454 Chevy engine. We are having cranking problems with it. When you try to start it with new batteries in it, all it does is click. I thought maybe one of the solenoids might be bad in it. Can you refer me to a troubleshooting site with an electrical diagram or advise me on how to figure this problem out myself? —Preston

Hi Preston. Although our dealership does not work on the chassis of motorhomes, I would offer the advice that you check the wiring from the battery down to the starter motor for breaks or corrosion. The solenoid for the starter is located within the starter itself and may be the culprit. There are many automotive repair websites available, but a trip to your local library may be beneficial to check out a GM repair manual, which will contain flowcharts and wiring diagrams. Great to hear from our friends south of the border, thanks for your question.—Reg DeYoung
Moisture in slide-out

The outer edge of my fifth-wheel slide-out at the floor level (and nowhere else), is getting wet. Some work was done on the bottom slide-out piece, but there is no evidence of the leak coming from the roof. I full-time in it, and I inspect and re-caulk each summer. I have a Crossroads Paradise Point made with aluminum framing. Could the wetness be condensation? Am I trying to find a leak that doesn’t exist? The rv tech who came out doesn’t know. I squeezed caulking into all the screw holes and used eternabond as well. Any ideas would be appreciated. I am at my wit’s end, especially since it’s winter in B.C. Thank you. —Melissa

The damp area could very well be condensation. Does the water show up after a rainfall or all the time? Check to ensure there is not an open area at the seals that is causing a draft or leak. There may be a split in the sealant at the upper edge of the metal mouldings which is allowing water to track down the side to the bottom corner. Also check to make sure the wiper seals are positioned properly with the upper or horizontal seal overlapping the side or vertical seals and there are no large gaps where they meet on the roof. Be careful and have a helper (if using a ladder to check these areas). —Reg DeYoung
Is this refrigerator repairable?

I don’t know anything about RV’s but we are planning on buying one, we looked at one that is being sold at a very good price because only one side of the power converter works (so it has to be replaced) the RV’s lights and outlets work the fridge outlet has power going to it but the fridge doesn’t seem to work would the side of the power converter be the problem or does that side of the converter have nothing to do with it as long as there is power going to the fridge, I guess I really want to know if the RV also needs a fridge as well as a converter.The fridge is a Dometic RM 2612 if this helps. —J. Winterbourne

The fridge requires 12 volt power to function. If you can determine why the 12 volt power is not flowing to the fridge terminal block and fix it, the fridge will work. Try checking all the fuses on the converter fed circuits and the accessory circuits. The accessory part of the fuse panel is used for the radio, monitor panel, and sometimes the fridge circuit. The battery charging component of the converter is most likely the failed part of the unit. This fridge also has fuses located in the circuit board to protect both the 110 volt heater and the 12 volt supply line. Remember to unplug the 110 power cord before checking the fuses. If you do get the fridge to start working your looking at about 3 hours to see if cooling takes place, put a thermometer in the lower compartment to determine if sufficient cooling is maintained. (40F is normal on a setting off 3 on the thermostat.) —Reg DeYoung
Batteries are not holding a charge

We have purchased a pre-owned diplomat. It has two banks of batteries each connected in series. The bank closest to the inv/converter is only putting out nine amps and the second bank is showing 11. We have a dash light on for “Alt Charge.” This week we have replaced all four batteries, the alternator and the starter. The owners manuals do not say what the “Alt charge” light is for. All house electrical works fine when hooked to shore power.—Carla

If the batteries are hooked up in series, then they must be 6 volt batteries. They will have 3 cells as opposed to a 12 volt battery which has six cells. I trust you mean nine volts and 11 volts, instead of amps. There are some tests that can be done to ensure the alternator is charging. Try and turn all the lights on in the RV and take the voltage down a little, then take the actual voltage reading from the batteries. Mark it down and start the motorhome up and read the voltage at the batteries. It should increase up to about 13 or 14 volts if the alternator is charging. As for the dashlight, there may be a problem elsewhere in the circuit causing the light to be displayed. If your RV is equipped with a battery solenoid or isolator, which allows the chassis electrical system to charge the batteries while the engine is running and separate the two systems while the engine is off, the unit may have failed and will not allow the chassis to charge the RV batteries. —Reg DeYoung
How to ensure the best gas mileage

I am looking at purchasing a 1988 Travelaire Class C motorhome to drive to New Mexico, what is the fuel consumption on a Ford 5.8L motor.—J. Learn

Sorry, I can’t provide an exact miles per gallon. However, you should consider a extensive tune-up before you leave on your trip to ensure the best gas mileage. If your new to owning and driving a RV motorhome there are many resources available to further educate you and enhance your driving skills. A book by Mark Polk titled “Drive Your Motorhome like a Pro” seems to be quite popular. —Reg DeYoung
Should I cap or remove an unused propane line?

I have just removed the propane furnace from a Boler. The propane line that feeds both the stove and the furnace is made from copper pipe. What should I do with the line that went to the furnace now that it is no longer needed? Can it be capped off or does it need to be removed?—Lorraine

It would be advisable to take your RV to a certified gas fitter and have the line changed so it only supplies the stove. This will ensure a safer alternative to simply capping the line off. The less the number of fittings, the better chance of a leak free system. —Reg DeYoung
Our furnace won’t fire

We have a 1996 Frontier 5th wheel travel trailer. Last summer the furnace worked well in the pre-summer service start up. Then in the fall the furnace would go through all the steps – except it would not fireup at all. This summer the same issue came up during the pre-summer service start up. Can you tell me what I should be looking for? There appears to be a circuit board on the side by the furnace motor/ heater. I did have to replace broken fuse, might this be a problem? I did disconnect the batteries before hand.—J. Huisman

If you locate the circuit board in the left hand corner there will be a white wire entering the pin connector. This wire is supplied power from the sail and limit switches and if there is power at this wire then the circuit board will most likely be the problem. Try and remove the board and clean the pin connections with an eraser, reinstall the connector and set the thermostat to see if the furnace will ignite. If the voltage is proper you will need to change the board out with either a HydroFlame board or an aftermarket Dinosaur circuit board.—Reg DeYoung
Gooseneck hitches on 5th wheels

Why don’t we use gooseneck hitches for 5th wheels? They seem to be a better solution for us fifth wheel guys, but are mostly used on farm equipment.—Ian

I would think gooseneck hitches are not popular on RVs because of there inability to be adjusted for tighter turns. If your interested in converting your present fifth wheel hitch over to a gooseneck hitch there are a couple of manufactures namely Colibert and Popuphitch that are popular for this conversion.—Reg DeYoung
Bedroom slide out

I have a crossroads cruiser with a bedroom slide. the slide is now pushing past its limit, is there an adjustment that can be made to stop the extra extension.—B. Ford

There will usually be a stop device to limit out the motor before it moves too far and damages the slide-out flange. Just recently we repaired a slideout that pulled the assembly away from the interior wall which was caused by a stopping block that became dislodged. Try and get access to the motor and rack and watch while the slide is operating to see if you can locate where the stop device is. Be careful and keep your hands away from the slide-out motor and rack while the slide is extending.—Reg DeYoung
Dometic RV Fridge Recall

We have a Dometic Mdl 2652 that has a recall. As I understand he recall fix is a shield to prevent a fire in case a refrigerant tubing crack. After reading some web blogs, I’m concerned that this is only a band aid. Can you enlighten me about this issue? I appreciate your excellent support.—D. G. Gillander

Hello David, The recall does not repair the defect, but it does provide an element of safety. The dealership you select will have a technician install a secondary enclosure around the burner that includes a thermal disk and a heat sensitive fuse. These two components are placed near the burner and boiler tube which have the 12 volt power supply routed through them to the lower control board and if a malfunction occurs , such as a fire, the circuit will open and the gas valve will close or the 110 heater will shut down. I have included some additional information for you to read that describes what you should do if your Dometic fridge is affected by the recall. If the recall does not give you “peace of mind” , then I would suggest you call the customer support line at 1-800-544-4881 or email them at .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address). If you live in Canada call 1-519-720-9578.—Reg DeYoung
Should I purchase or repair my Dometic refrigerator?

My Dometic RM 2810 refrigerator has amonia oozing out. What are the pros and cons of purchasing new verses repairing the core?—R. Thiessen

It is more cost effective in the short term, like for instance your going to sell your RV. But if you are going to use your RV frequently, then it is best to change to a total new fridge. The Dometic fridge sizing chart shows that there are a few options for new replacement namely an RM 2820, RM 2852 or a NDR 1062. If you contact your local RV parts store they can give you a cost with parts and labour to get you back on the road.—Reg DeYoung
Why does the battery go down when our trailer is plugged in?

We are trying to locate a manual for this trailer. We purchased this about a month ago. The problem is on the slide out. The camper is hooked up to electricity all the time. After two weeks of not using the camper the battery was not charged enough to move the slide out. We are able to put a battery jumper on the battery of the camper and get the slide to go in and out. We want to figure out why the battery is going down when it is plugged into electricity. The lights and ac work fine.—Brenda

The slide motor will always work better when supplied power primarily from the battery as opposed to the converter only. It seems as though the charging component has failed in your RV. Do the lights brighten when you switch from converter to battery power? If the battery is defective the charger will not “kick in” and recharge the battery. A simple way to check the circuit to the battery from the converter is to take the voltage reading at the battery unplugged and plugged in to see if there is an increase in voltage. Check the cells in the battery with a specific gravity meter available at your local RV parts store. ( Be sure and wear safety goggles when doing this procedure or take the battery out and have it tested by a technician.)—Reg DeYoung
What is the best way to replace shower panels?

One wall in our shower is peeling in a couple of spots. It seems to be similar to vinyl wall paper. What is the best way to fix the problem. Do I peel it off, if so how? And what do I use to replace it, can you buy a similar material and redo it, or can you replace it with those shower panels you can buy at home reno stores.—J. Sutherland

You can purchase a similiar material, but replacing it will require some extensive work. I would install a residential shower stall which will look just fine. Be sure and follow the instructions on the adhesive application to ensure it stays put. Seal the corners with a mold resistant silicone to finish the job.—Reg DeYoung
Wiring schematic for a 1986 Coachman

I am looking to obtain a wiring schematic for a 1986 Coachman Senator 30 model. Where can I obtain one for a 454 engine? Any help would be appreciated.—Jerry

It is very difficult to get a wiring schematic for a RV of this vintage, but for troubleshooting the wiring and other repairs, you should purchase the Trailer Life Repair and Maintenance Manual by Bob Livingston. As for the 454 engine, your local library will have a manual with the wiring schematics and you can just photocopy the pages you need.—Reg DeYoung

Ask an RV tech

Slide-out issues

Battery requirements

Fleetwood Bounder with water heater trouble

Furnace squealing

Battery comparison

The auxillary switch mystery

Dual-battery emergency start circuit

Help me see the light(s)

Furnace fan keeps running

Surveyor slide-out

Weak floor in a Fleetwood Bounder

Possible fuel pump failure

Weight on the axles

Little Gem measurements

Palomino electric systems

Canadian-built units

Cleaning up after rodents

The best generator

Switching from gas to electric

Lifting linoleum

Slide-out hang-ups

TV upgrades

Broken seal

Holding tank gauge reads empty

Soft spot in the roof

DIY help

Golden Falcon procedures

A new career

Slide-out issues

Cranking and clicking

Moisture in slide-out

Is this refrigerator repairable?

Batteries are not holding a charge

How to ensure the best gas mileage

Should I cap or remove an unused propane line?

Our furnace won’t fire

Gooseneck hitches on 5th wheels

Bedroom slide out

Dometic RV Fridge Recall

Should I purchase or repair my Dometic refrigerator?

Why does the battery go down when our trailer is plugged in?

What is the best way to replace shower panels?

Wiring schematic for a 1986 Coachman

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